The Land of Yin and Yang
Modernization does not make Korea forget its root. Keeping the concept of yin and yang, the country maintains the perfect balance between technology and tradition, between ship construction and Buddhist temple, between shopping branded clothing and pray for the ancestors. It is interesting to learn how those two extremes remain harmoniously.
South Korea has two extreme sides. Its modern sides, typical Western living, includes modern well arranged cities, rapid growth of advanced technology, and peoples obsession in wellness maintenance to balance junk foods. Its traditional side exposes purification of Confucius, peaceful meditation in Buddhist temples, and Asian mindset inherited among generations.
Your South Korean experience may get started at Haeundae Somunnan, one of the oldest restaurants in Busan which was built 40 years ago. Among its visitors are famous celebrities and and tattlers. At an average of $33 per portion, you can enjoy various meats cooked on stone grill. Something which may take attention of many is cascading “no smoking” plaque on one side and string of fortune teller kiosks and tents where they freely smoke. There are so many kiosks and tents, and people keeps on coming in and out, paying some money to know their destiny in front of a crystal ball.
Ironic phenomena representing the lost of the smokers and the victory to cigarette sellers. Or in a different perspective can be seen as an affair between modern Western-influenced community who cares about their health and ancient oriental tradition dictating that smoke is an inherent part of paranormal. Mystical practice is an important pillar of South Korean tradition. Association of fortune tellers and spiritual healers have 300 thousand members. With current population of 48 million, there is one paranormal for every 160 residents in the country.
South Korea has a chronic contradiction with three different segments of its society. The first one is modern-minded, the children of globalization. The second one is believer of traditional wisdom, the guardian of oriental culture. The third one is teenagers separating themselves from older generation, hook themselves to the internet, and live in virtual world. Korean teenagers is among the top board of internet dependency.
However the contradiction is possibly part of the national identity, whose root can be traced through the Yin and Yang philosophy which seems to be officially adopted by the country. The symbol can be found in the national flag. Philosophically Yin and Yang represent the eternal battle between the good and the bad, black and white, fire and water, beats each other and complements each other at the same time.
Antagonism is also reflected in their daily living. Buddhist temple with contrast color combination of red, green and gold can be easily found everywhere, scattered among pagodas and Zen garden. Many people go to the temple in seek of peaceful oasis. But outside the temple gates, modern skyscrapers in steel, concrete, and glass soar up the sky.
Even the Buddhist philosophy – which dictates people to stay away from material wealth and stands against neo-liberalism foundation of the country’s economy – is facing dualism of Yin and Yang. The temple of Bong Eun Sa is an interesting example as it “sells” ritual to maintain its existence. A dual-language announcement informs that the temple built in 794 in Seoul implements “temple know-how” management to maintain sustainability of theKorean Buddhist tradition and meditation a la Seon. Every Thursday between 2 to 4 in the afternoon the temple offers introductory program for visitors. Participants have to pay for a tour around the temple, visiting the giant statue in the middle of the garden, attending tea ceremony, and meditation session.
An interesting contradiction can be found in the traditional market of Gyeongdong, Seoul. Whilst medicine produced by modern pharmaceutical industries can be easily found everywhere, Koreans prefer ginseng. Various form of root and powder of top quality ginseng believed as the best vitality booster can be found in Gyeongdong.
Gyeongdong, center of traditional medicine, occupies four huge blocks, representing the magnificent achievement of classic traditional pharmacy of China and Korea. Located below the soaring building of Gyeongdong, the market serves as the center for healing of various third-millennium diseases using dried sea horse, sea cucumber, snakes, herbs, roots, deer horn, all are powdered, bottled, and stored in soaring floor-to-ceiling cabinets.
Another interesting place to visit is Insadong where you can scan unlimited array of antique shops, book stores, and art galleries. The area is packed by visitors during weekends. Gaon is a favorite restaurant to locals. Strategic location, minimalist settings, but wallet blowing price.
One afternoon, a businessman carrying Louis Vuitton bag prays in an empty room. He sits in front of a Buddha figure projected to a giant screen. The frame perfectly shows that despite of modern wealth, Koreans do not leave their tradition. Number of Christians is almost equal to number of Buddhists, about a quarter of total population, but they are not practicing their religious rituals as perfect. At night especially in urban areas, lightened crosses beat domination of advertising billboards. There are so many of them that makes the city looks like Christian cemetery.
Unlike in many other sides of the globe, global modernization and tradition work side by side harmoniously. The symbol of Yin and Yang does not only reflects conflict but also harmony.
South Korea is among the countries with most advanced technology in Asia. Its rapid economic growth is led by hi-tech industry. Whilst there is an anti-Americanization initiated by 38 thousands marines, the majority of Koreans are highly influenced by Western mind-set. However tradition remains affecting every sides of their life.
Gyeongju, a city in the southern part of South Korea had been the capital city of Silla, one out of three kingdoms forming up the current Korea, for at lease a millennium. Centuries of Korean history was buried under magnificent hills in the city. The hills are actually the tomb of nobles, mostly from the 5th and 6th century. They have lied there for centuries and will remain that way forever. The government has once approve archeological exploration to one tomb back in 1970, but immediately stopped it and held a ceremony to ask the ancestors forgiveness for disturbing their rest. Korean tradition dictates that touching or walking on tombs as an offend, no mention to dig them.
A fact to note is that South Korea is so far remaining in war status. The peace pact drawn with its neighboring country of North Korea has not been fully implemented yet. The border between the country has been guarded only by a temporary cease-fire agreement which has lasted for 56 years. Just like Taoism believe saying that Yin will never exist without Yang, South Korea could not be separated from its northern neighbor. The world is seeing the two fighting Koreas in Yin and Yang dualism, at least in American point of view, South Korea is the good and North Korea is the evil.
Whilst the brotherhood inevitably remains in their blood, conflict between the two countries has deeply affected their mindset. South Koreans see the border as a defending fort whilst the North Korean see it as the prison’s wall. Feeling of peace, especially for South Korean, is something hard to achieve as long as Pyongyang is is exposing their missiles in their dictatorship style.
Whilst the two government continuously working on mutually acceptable agreement, the South Korean teenagers send 60 SMS per day in average whilst North Koreans are still ignoring the cell phones.
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